Fashion designer Zhaoyi Yu is an emerging talent in the world of couture, known for their deeply introspective and emotionally charged collections. With a focus on delicate craftsmanship and intricate storytelling, his designs evoke a sense of fragility and strength in equal measure. In their debut runway collection, GLIMPSE, showcased at London Fashion Week, Yu explored the interconnected fragility of nature—blending sculptural elements with soft, fluid silhouettes to capture the essence of vulnerability. Inspired by the beauty found in brokenness, his work delves into the complexities of humanity and the power of embracing one’s vulnerabilities. In this interview, we discuss the creative journey behind GLIMPSE, the influence of traditional craftsmanship on their designs, and the future they envision for the brand.

We were lucky enough to see your runway show first-hand, and I was struck by how easily it was to be drawn into the world you created for the GLIMPSE collection. For a lot of brands and fashion shows today, it can feel as though the art of world-building is sometimes lost in favour of a short viral moment. How important is it to you to maintain that tradition of storytelling and world-building in couture?

I think storytelling is the most direct expression of the designer, especially for couture. It is the soul and the main reason that distinguishes it from ordinary clothing, so it is very important to me to maintain this tradition.

The collection was inspired by the “interconnected fragility of the ocean, land, and sky” I would love to hear about how these natural elements shaped your creative process and how you translated such abstract ideas into your garments?

In fact, this inspiration happened very randomly. One day I accidentally discovered that these fragile and fleeting things are always very attractive to me, so I decided to create some works around this feeling. This whole concept sounds very abstract and empty, but this is exactly the feeling I want to express, so I did not deliberately concretise the concept, but felt these elements of nature, and then chose the ones that I felt the strongest to create.

You emphasise the idea of “fragile beauty” throughout GLIMPSE. What message do you hope to convey to your audience through this concept? How do you want them to feel when they see and experience your work?

I hope everyone can show their vulnerability confidently and don’t need to be ashamed of being vulnerable. Vulnerability is actually beautiful and charming.

The collection features a distinctive contrast between the delicate, sculptural pieces and the more armour-like body casts. How important was it for you to explore this balance of strength and vulnerability, and what inspired the inclusion of more structured elements in a collection focused on fragility?

I think strength and fragility are in a symbiotic relationship, so when it comes to fragility, one must contrast them with each other. They both can transform into each other. When the strength is broken, fragility is revealed. Sculptures always symbolize perseverance and perseverance. This inspired me to add elements of broken human sculptures to the series to express different expressions of vulnerability.

The use of traditional Chinese mother-of-pearl inlay craftsmanship in your designs really stood out. What inspired you to incorporate this technique, usually reserved for more traditional artwork, into a modern couture collection?

There are a lot of furniture inlaid with mother-of-pearl in my grandma’s house. When I was a child, I would be attracted by them every time I went to my grandma’s house. Countless shell fragments formed exquisite patterns. This was the first time that I felt the beauty of brokenness and fragility in such a concrete way, so I hope to This craft for furniture is combined with my couture.

Across all your collections, there’s a strong sense of celebrating femininity in its many forms. Who do you have in mind when you design? Is there a particular woman or archetype you envision wearing your pieces?

I don’t really have a person in my mind when I design, I think I’m just feel like femininity naturally from when I was kid so I would say it’s just the result of following my heart.

GLIMPSE was your debut collection at London Fashion Week, which is a major milestone, congratulations! What was the experience like for you, from the initial preparation to the moments right before the show? Were there any unexpected challenges or surprising moments along the way?

Overall, everything went smoother than expected. Everyone was very professional and willing to help each other. The biggest challenge was that the time was limited but the workload was heavy, so this required me to manage the time really smart.

You had the incredible drag artist Tayce close the show in your final look. How did that collaboration come about?

Actually it’s such a big surprise for me , I sent her invitation to be the guest and her team responded to us quickly and brought up the idea of letting her walking for one of our look. We immediately arranged the fitting. After the fitting everybody felt that the last outfit was born for her then Tayce closing for my show, it’s still feel so unreal.

Looking ahead, what’s next for your brand? Do you have any upcoming projects, collaborations, or design ideas that you’re excited to explore?

We will have our second show in 2025 will show you guys more details when everything confirmed.

How do you want your designs to influence the world?

Well, the world will let you know the answer.