Reimagining the Burberry Brand - Daniel Lee Presents SS25 at London Fashion Week
Perhaps one of the most coveted roles in fashion - and the most challenging - Daniel Lee has a significant weight on his shoulders. It's no secret that Burberry has faced a difficult couple of years, and with slower sales comes increased scrutiny over the decisions made within the house. The appointment of their new CEO Joshua Schulman, who joined the team from Coach, signals a clear intent: Burberry is looking to inject a new lease of life into the historic brand, and shift towards a more commercial trajectory.
Lee’s two year tenure at the British fashion house has been a delight for fans of the heritage brand. His distinctive styling choices and eye for juxtaposing materials have kept long time customers intrigued whilst drawing in a younger demographic to the brand, which had previously been overlooked in favour of an older, professional clientele.
There’s something to be said for the glamorously undone pairings Lee presented this season, which depart from the typical sleek look many have come to expect from such a storied brand. Instead, he offered a collection of redefined classics, the iconic trench coat was reimagined as dresses, capelets and tops. Other iconic coat styles were also on offer, with parkas, anoraks and military jackets getting an updated look through cut outs and subverted detailing. Parkas ditched the traditional fur hood lining for ostrich feathers, adding movement and a sense of ease - a reflection of Lee’s Burberry: effortlessly chic and quietly confident in its impact.
The styling played a key role, too. Oversized parkas of leathers and linens enveloped party dresses adorned with fringed sequins that moved effortlessly even under the weight of British weather appropriate outerwear. Dainty, frilled and equally sparkling tops were balanced by almost uniform like khaki trousers, creating a contrast that I can only describe as “sensible glamour”. In alignment with the Burberry tagline of “Born of function, grounded in heritage” the looks were undoubtedly luxurious, and beautifully crafted, yet it’s evident but it's evident that they were designed for retail success.
For this collection, Lee forwent traditional camouflage prints in favour of subtle ditsy florals, which covered his cargo pants. When paired with a more a military green field coat, this felt like a deliberate nob to Burberry’s past, now reimagined for the future.The floral print also adorned trench coats in both earthy oranges and pale green prints, which will no doubt become a coveted item for Burberry trench collectors.
The colour pallette was echoed the springtime tones Daniel Lee put forward having described the collection as having “a feeling of lightness and summertime”. Pastel pinks, lilacs, dusky blues and even bright orange punctuated the earthy neutral tones that are typical of the brand. All of these shades popped and stood out against the backgrounds created by British Artist Gary Hume. The set with its bright colour, geometric and unashamedly modern approach, complimented the fresh and revitalised collection, while standing in contrast to the brutalist architecture of the National Theatre, where the show took place.
As Burberry navigates this time of change, Daniel Lee feels like the ideal person to steer its future. His thoughtful forward thinking designs find a complimentary balance between its heritage and the innovative designs that have shaped his career and taken hold of social media and fashion culture at large. We look forward to seeing how he continues to shape this iconic brand.
