Alessandro Michele's Triumphant Debut at Valentino
The fashion world was left in suspense when Alessandro Michele stepped down as Creative Director of Gucci in November 2023. After an illustrious tenure at Gucci spanning twenty years, Michele's next move became a topic of speculation. The answer arrived in March 2024, when he joined Valentino, taking over from Pierpaolo Piccioli. The move marks a new chapter for both the designer and the esteemed Italian fashion house.
On March 28, 2024, Alessandro Michele officially took the reins at Valentino. The move was met with speculation, curious about how Michele's distinctive maximalist style would meld with Valentino's storied elegance. In under three months, Michele unveiled a resort collection that exceeded expectations, presenting 171 looks for a mixed-gender clientele, complete with bags, shoes, and accessories. Such a feat is remarkable, the extensiveness of the collection does not compromise in quality and attention to detail. This is not the first time that Michele has created a collection in such a short time frame, his debut collection for Gucci in 2015 was designed and created in just two weeks and remains a testament to his signature style, and androgynous take on fashion design.
Michele's debut collection at Valentino is quintessentially his own, yet it seamlessly integrates with the brand's luxurious heritage. The collection, named ‘Avants les Débuts’ was revealed Monday 17th, true to the beloved style DNA of the designer, the 2025 resort collection features rich fabrics, maximalist designs, and an array of 70s-inspired elements. Over 200 images were released without fanfare, showing a collection filled with fur-trimmed coats, turbans, capes, intricate mixed patterns, brocade, and an abundance of ruffles. Bejewelled and beaded pieces add extravagance, creating a collection that is undoubtedly as opulent, as it is whimsical.
The timing of the release did not go unnoticed, dropping just hours before his successor, Sabato De Sarno's debut for Gucci. Whose collection was sleeker and more pared back than the fashion house had seen in recent years.
Fans of Michele's maximalist aesthetic will undoubtedly be thrilled with this extensive new collection. It represents a perfect blend of Michele's eccentric flair and Valentino's timeless elegance. The result is a collection that exudes 'timeless cool,' offering a fresh yet familiar take that is refreshing for the Roman house, it will have no doubt won over the hearts of the cult-like fans of Michele, but whether it will be a hit with the long-standing admirers of Valentino we are yet to see.
Alessandro Michele is renowned for his theatrical runway shows, and his past productions have set a high bar for shows to come. From models carrying lifelike replicas of their own heads to casting identical twins to walk hand-in-hand, and even securing Westminster Abbey as a runway location, Michele's shows are nothing short of spectacular. As he prepares to debut his first show for Valentino in Paris this year, we can’t help but wonder if he will bring the same level of theatricality and world-building to Valentino's runway.
Alessandro Michele's return to the fashion forefront with Valentino is nothing short of triumphant. His ability to marry his unique design vision with Valentino's elegance marks the beginning of an exciting new era for the fashion house. As the industry watches eagerly, one thing is clear: Michele's creative journey is far from over, and his influence on the fashion world continues to grow.
Article by Sophie Thomalla