Who will take the Helm at Chanel? The Fashion Wold Waits

TEXT BY TAYLOR ROSE BOWE

A Parade of Possibilities
The fashion world is abuzz with speculation over who will step into one of the most prestigious roles in luxury: the artistic director of Chanel. Virginie Viard, who succeeded Karl Lagerfeld following his death in 2019, has announced her departure after five years at the helm. This marks the end of an era for the French fashion house and leaves a vacancy that has ignited both excitement and intense debate within the industry.

For months, rumours have swirled about potential successors, creating a buzz akin to the anticipation of a blockbuster premiere. High-profile names have been floated, each bringing unique qualities that could reshape Chanel’s future.

The Contenders
At the top of the rumour mill are established powerhouses like Hedi Slimane, the current creative director of Celine. Slimane, a longtime friend and admirer of Lagerfeld, famously inspired the German designer to slim down to fit into his Dior Homme suits. His rock-and-roll aesthetic and commercial success make him a strong contender, though reports of his departure from Celine remain unconfirmed.

John Galliano, currently at Maison Margiela, is another name generating buzz. Known for his theatrical vision and ability to capture the zeitgeist, Galliano’s recent Artisanal collection left a profound impact, sparking conversations well beyond the fashion elite. With his knack for creating viral moments—a hallmark of Lagerfeld’s Chanel—he is seen as a natural fit.

Nicolas Ghesquière, the creative director of Louis Vuitton’s womenswear, was initially considered a strong candidate. However, his recent contract renewal with Louis Vuitton has likely taken him out of the running. Similarly, Simon Porte Jacquemus, a protégé of Lagerfeld, seems unlikely to leave his thriving eponymous label.

Could a younger, more dynamic force like Jonathan Anderson step in? The 39-year-old designer, who leads both Loewe and JW Anderson, represents a new generation of talent. His innovative approach to blending traditional craftsmanship with contemporary sensibilities could offer Chanel a bold new direction.

Meanwhile, Jeremy Scott, Lagerfeld’s self-declared “only” logical successor, remains a wildcard. With his fun-loving designs and flair for spectacle, Scott could bring a playful energy to the maison.

The Dark Horses
Other potential candidates include Matthieu Blazy, currently leading Bottega Veneta. Known for his innovative craftsmanship and contemporary approach to luxury, Blazy could bring a fresh, modern perspective to Chanel. Pierpaolo Piccioli, who departed Valentino earlier this year, is another seasoned leader with a history of redefining iconic brands.

Then there’s Marc Jacobs, whose longstanding admiration for Chanel is well-documented. In 2005, Jacobs famously described the role as "the scariest job in the world" but also "the coup de grâce." His irreverent creativity and cultural relevance could make him an exciting choice.

Less obvious names include Grace Wales Bonner, whose thoughtful designs blend British tailoring with global influences, and Phoebe Philo, another industry heavyweight. However, Philo’s focus on her own label might make her a less likely candidate.

A Rare Opportunity
The position of artistic director at Chanel is more than just a job—it’s one of the most visible and influential roles in the fashion industry. The brand’s unparalleled history and cultural cachet provide its next leader with an extraordinary platform to shape the future of luxury fashion.

Viard’s departure marks a turning point for the 114-year-old brand. Under her leadership, Chanel achieved remarkable financial success, with revenues climbing to $19.7 billion in 2023—a 75% increase from 2018. However, while her collections resonated commercially, critics argue they lacked the theatrical flair and boundary-pushing energy that defined Lagerfeld’s tenure.

Chanel now faces the daunting task of selecting a successor who can sustain its commercial dominance while reigniting its cultural and creative buzz. As with Louis Vuitton’s surprising appointment of Pharrell Williams as menswear creative director, Chanel’s ultimate choice could shock the industry.

Will they opt for a safe choice or take a risk on a fresh, untested vision? As the announcement looms, one thing is certain: all eyes are on Chanel, and the stakes have never been higher.

GRAPHIC DESIGN BY DEYEON KIM

IMAGES BY @VOGUERUNWAY @KARLLAGERFELD @PHOEBEPHILO