TEXT BY TAYLOR ROSE BOWE

Fetishwear is no longer confined to underground clubs and niche communities—it’s firmly in the fashion spotlight. But what makes fetish fashion so intriguing, and why has it captured the imagination of both designers and the public? Fetishwear, characterised by materials like latex and leather and accessories such as harnesses, chokers, and masks, is about more than making a statement. For some, it’s a way to experiment with identity. “You become a little less human, more like a mannequin,” says Mistress Iris, a professional dominatrix. “There’s a freedom in that anonymity. You can exist without people knowing your history, your race, your gender, or your socioeconomic status.” This blend of mystery and boldness has always been part of fetishwear’s allure. In a world where self-expression is everything, these striking looks carve out space for individuality—and maybe a little rebellion.

Fetish fashion has a long history. After World War II, leather became a key element in queer subcultures, blending practicality with self-expression. Over time, designers like Vivienne Westwood, Alexander McQueen, and, more recently, Demna Gvasalia have brought bondage-inspired designs to the runway, blurring the line between kink and couture.

When celebrities don fetishwear, though, it often sparks debate. Is it an embrace of subculture or simply an aesthetic trend? Stylist Kurt Johnson reflects, “It’s great to see people embracing these looks, but for some of us, it’s a personal extension of who we are. When it’s treated as a passing fad, it can feel a bit hollow.”

The recent resurgence of fetish-inspired fashion might be tied to cultural shifts. The pandemic, for instance, made face coverings a daily reality, normalising the idea of concealing identity. Latex, often referred to as a "second skin," fits this moment perfectly, offering both protection and intrigue. As fetish aesthetics gain visibility, there’s an opportunity to rethink their place in fashion and society. For those in the kink community, it’s about recognising the cultural and historical significance behind these designs. “Fetishwear comes from queer people and sex workers who’ve been marginalised for years,” Johnson adds. “If it’s going to be celebrated, we should also honour where it came from.”

London’s nightclub and rave culture has long been a hub for experimental fashion, where fetish-inspired looks are integral to the city’s underground scene. Clubs like Heaven, Fold, and The Colour Factory become runways for leather harnesses, PVC skirts, latex catsuits, and gimp masks. For many, it’s not about following a trend but wearing what makes them feel liberated, powerful, and part of a community that thrives on subversion and rebellion.

Whether it’s a latex dress or a leather harness, fetish fashion challenges traditional ideas about beauty and identity. As it cycles through the mainstream, it raises important questions about the balance between inspiration and appropriation.

But one thing is clear: fetish fashion is far more than a fleeting trend. It’s a testament to the power of self-expression, the evolution of style, and fashion’s ability to disrupt and provoke. Whether in the underground clubs of London or on the red carpet, this bold aesthetic continues to reshape how we view identity, style, and individuality.