Phoebe Philo Debuts her First Collection with new Namesake Brand
Philophiles rejoice, six years after leaving Céline, Phoebe Philo has finally returned to fashion’s centre stage with a new and much anticipated collection (of sorts) of her own. The first drop, or rather ‘edit’, debuted Monday 30th October and heralds the return of the sleek, decidedly cool style we’ve come to expect from Phoebe Philo.
The eponymous label already differentiates itself from the crowd through the new marketing model employed by Philo. Rather than seasonal capsules or collections, the designer has released ‘Edits’ split into different instalments, as of now Edit A1 is available to shop, though at the time of writing over half of the collection has already sold out. Through this model, Philo is ignoring the regular fashion calendar, instead making Edits available in accordance to her own timeframe with Edit A2 expected to be released in Spring of 2024.
This decision makes clear the philosophy in which Phoebe designs, the garments are timeless, unaffected by trends and designed to be loved and worn forever. Lovers of this ethos do not have much time to deliberate their purchases however; the production extremely limited, with approximately only 100 of each item being produced. “The Phoebe Philo business model is designed to create a responsible balance between production and demand. For us, this means producing notably less than anticipated want,” reports the website.
The unveiled garments represent all that is beloved by self appointed ‘Philophiles’ and carry a distinct understanding of the female gaze. The colour palette remains muted, formed mostly of neutral tones in black, browns, whites, oxblood and khakis, but the clothes themselves are anything but bland; Philo’s eye for unusual and disarming details kept the clothes exciting, even erotic in tone.
Tailored trousers feature zips running down the backs of the legs to be opened as far as the wearer dares, bondage straps adorn the legs of suiting trousers, even swimwear complete with metal studs have been teased for upcoming drops. These brazen features feel powerful and at times androgynous, but not in opposition to femininity. Rather they are contrasted and supported by softer, rounded silhouettes found within the collection: a highlight being an oversized, almost slouchy leather jacket complete with peplum waist, and the reoccurring featherlike ribbons affixed to trousers, coats and skirt hems. The end result lying balanced in a celebration of a sexuality that remains decidedly feminine. It is this understanding of the lives and characters of the women Phoebe Philo designs for, that is essential to her cult like following.
With what is undoubtably a successful homecoming to the design world, we cannot wait to see what the future holds for Phoebe Philo.
Article by Sophie Thomalla
